Key-Eating Rodeo
Q: How do I remove the key from the ignition on a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo Sport? It won't come out and seems to have something to do with the button on the shifter.
A: The problem is definitely related to the shift-lever pushbutton. The button is part of a safety feature to prevent the transmission from coming out of Park until the ignition is turned on. And at the same time you can't remove the key until the transmission is taken out of gear and put back in Park. There's a cable routed between the lock cylinder assembly in the steering column and the shifter assembly in the console. When the ignition is turned to the "accessory" or "run" position, the cable releases the pushbutton on the shifter, allowing you to depress the button, release the shifter, and put the transmission in gear. A common issue with some 1998-and-up Rodeos is the shift-lock cable coming out of adjustment, preventing you from turning the ignition to Lock and removing the key--just like when you accidentally leave the shifter in gear. The adjustment procedure is a bit too complex to explain here--not rocket science, but it involves partial disassembly of the steering column for access to the lock cylinder assembly to adjust the cable correctly. So you're better off getting it to an Isuzu service department or a qualified independent repair shop. It shouldn't be too expensive.
Leaky Axle Seal Diagnosis
Q: I pulled off the brake drum on my 1993 Suburban to inspect the brake shoes and noticed the dust from brake-shoe wear was moist and oily. I saw no actual fluid, so the leak must have just started or is very slight. The fluid didn't appear to come from the brake cylinder, and the brake-fluid reservoir is at the proper level. I plan to clean the brakes thoroughly and then watch for a fluid leak in the next week. If I find no brake-fluid leak, I'll assume the axle's seal is leaking. Will replacing the axle's outbound seal require special tools? Does the seal need to be pressed in and/or out? Can the outbound seal be replaced with the axle in place (thus not having to open the differential's access plate and pulling the C-clips to remove the axle)? Is there a need to remove the entire axle assembly and differential from the vehicle?
A: Yes, you can pry out the old axle seals with a big screwdriver or pry bar, and the correct-size seal-driver tool should be used to install the new seals. But if you're careful, the seals can be installed by gently tapping them in with a hammer. No, the seals don't need to be installed with a hydraulic press, just slowly tapped straight into the axle housing. No, the axle shaft goes through the seal so it has to be removed. And no, again, there's no need to remove the entire rear axle assembly. If the brake's wheel cylinders are dry and everything else is wet, the axle seal is leaking and must be replaced. A technician can usually smell the difference between brake fluid and gear oil. Assuming we're working on a half-ton Suburban with an 8.5-inch rear axle, you'll have to pull the differential cover, remove the differential pinion shaft lock screw, extract the shaft, push the axle inward, and remove the C-lock from the button end of the axle. Then remove the axle, replace the seal, reverse the procedure, and fill it up with SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil. If it sounds involved, have it done at a good repair shop. Remember, it's silly not to replace both axle seals while you're in there, and always replace any brake linings that have been contaminated with fluid other than water.