Tarnished '94 Chevrolet Silverado Rims
Q:The factory-standard five-spoke aluminum wheels on my '94 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 have turned yellow, started to peel, and become discolored. I've used Turtle Wax Chrome Polish and Rust Remover, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish, Simple Green, It's a Miracle, and turpentine to remove this yellowish color. Nothing works. I'm looking for ideas and solutions short of purchasing new wheels.
A: You can rub, buff, and polish all you want, but it's not going to help. The actual problem is a permanent discoloration in the clear/color coat, and/or aluminum-surface degradation. The only proper repair is complete refinishing by a professional. Most procedures begin with plastic-media blasting to strip each wheel down to bare aluminum without destroying the smooth surface. You'd then have a choice of materials and colors to work with on the new finish. The cheapest way out is a cleaner-looking set of wheels at a junkyard. The correct and more expensive route is replacement with a set of properly resurfaced factory wheels. Check out Becker Hubcap & Wheel Transwheel Corporation, Dept. TT06, 3000 Yeoman Way, Huntington, IN 46750; 800/892-3733; www.transwheel.com, for prices on replacements or reconditioning your current wheels.
Chevy Trouble Coding
Q:The Service Engine Soon light comes on when I'm driving my '86 Chevy S-10 Blazer. The service manual says there's an "ACLR module" from which I can jump A to B to receive a code isolating the problem. The book, however, says on one page it's located underhood on the left side of the firewall and on another page that it's under the dash. Neither shows a picture of the box. Can you help me locate it?
A: Jumping A to B takes us way back. The correct terminology is "ALCL Connector" (Assembly Line Communication Link), which is located under the driver's side of the instrument panel. If it's not plainly visible, someone must have unbolted it and left it hanging around under the dash somewhere. The ALCL is a 12-cavity connector labeled A through M, but leaves out the I. With the ignition on, jump terminal A to B (a paperclip will work just fine). If the Electronic Control Module is functional then the Service Engine Soon light will flash a Code 12 three times (flash-pause-flash-flash x 3). The trouble codes, stored in the memory, will present themselves in the same manner going from lower to higher numbers. Write the codes down and find the appropriate diagnostic chart in whatever service manual you're working with. Always start with the lowest-number trouble codes first. The first repair may correct the higher codes at the same time. This is the old-fashioned way. A quality scan tool will plug into the ALCL and immediately give you the stored trouble codes along with a multitude of additional information to aid in the diagnosis of a problem. Happy hunting.
Ram V-10 Runny Nose
Q:I own a '95 Dodge Ram 2500 with the V-10. After three days of not running, antifreeze starts to leak out of the head gaskets (both sides), the thermostat housing, and water pump, leaving spots about the size of quarters. There are no leaks at any hose connections, and it doesn't leak with the motor running. The truck is outside, and it gets fairly cold at night. There hasn't been enough fluid lost to warrant adding any. I believe the problem stems from expansion and contraction. I've been monitoring my findings for two months now. Is this common on the V-10s?
A: It's possible the water pump is starting to leak along with a few drops coming out of the thermostat housing. However, the addition of both head gaskets leaking simultaneously may indicate the engine was severely overheated at one time. This can cause various surfaces to warp and originate a flood. I'd strongly suggest further diagnosis before breaking out the checkbook. The first thing to do, however, is have a qualified technician pressure-test the system to see exactly where the coolant is coming from. Often a leak will start up high and travel down through the nooks and crannies to make it appear the leak is emanating from a lower part of the engine. If it's still unclear after the pressure test exactly where the coolant leak or leaks have originated, the next step will involve the addition of a fluorescent dye to the coolant system. The engine can then be scanned with a black light after being run for a period of time. The coolant will glow bright green, which makes is easy to locate those hard-to-find leaks and should give you an accurate diagnosis before beginning any repairs.
Finding the '88 V-6 Toyota 4x4 Brain
Q:I bought a service manual in an attempt to fix a problem with my '88 V-6 Toyota 4x4 pickup. I need assistance to locate the computer (main brain). The manual doesn't show it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
A:The Electronic Control Unit receives signals from a multitude of data sensors and switches. The signals are processed and then used for controlling electronic fuel injection, electronic spark advance, idle-speed control, and so on. It's located behind the right kick panel (the plastic panel next to the passenger's right foot). There's also something called the Electronic Transmission Control Unit mounted under the center console in front of the gear selector. This module controls certain automatic-transmission functions. Avoid spending money on parts until you're sure of any failures.
2000 Chevy Silverado Z71: Let There Be Light
Q:I want to add GM foglights to my 2000 Chevy Silverado Z71. I bought them at the Chevy dealership and was told I'd have to make an appointment to activate the computer even if I put them in myself. Is there any way I can activate the lights?
A: Your Chevy came from the factory without foglamps so the system hasn't been programmed to turn them on once receiving the appropriate signal from the foglamp switch. It's going to require a qualified GM Tech with some expensive electronic equipment to do the job correctly. The interior and exterior lighting is computer controlled by a little unit known as the Body Control Module. The technician will record your vehicle's information from the BCM with a scan tool (the Tech 2) and hook it up to an electronic link with the guys in Detroit (the Techline Terminal), where he can open up to the Service Programming System mode that contains all of the latest programming for General Motors' vehicles. While preparing the most updated BCM program for your particular truck, the technician will select the foglamps as an included option before burning in the new configuration. This should run you about an hour's labor, which can vary from $65 to $85 depending on where you're located. I'd also suggest having the Powertrain Control Module reprogrammed with the latest and the greatest while you're in there. The PCM controls multiple engine functions and transmission operation, and, just like an update or a patch on your PC, the latest programming can help keep things running at optimum level.