From the point where you enter these hallowed grounds at the north end of the canyon down to the old Wilcox ranch at the south end of Range Creek is about 13 miles. You can pitch a tent, tow in a pop-up tent camper, or drive in a truck camper (getting here on the primitive road over Horse Canyon is no easy journey) and bivouac just outside the north entrance to Range Creek. Because you are allowed to enter Range Creek only by foot or on horseback, it's impossible to see much because of the distances between ancient sites and the fact that some sites have yet to be located. An old ranch road (in most places its two ruts through the dirt and rock) meanders alongside Range Creek as it flows down to and past the old Wilcox Ranch at the south end of the canyon. Everyone has to be out of Range Creek by sundown (no overnights inside), and the agencies that control this canyon issue only a few permits daily that are good for only a specific day.

The canyon is closed during the winter months because of snow. After getting their cows up to the top of the mountain and opening the lodge to guests, Butch and Jeanie take folks into Range Creek. You need protective clothing, good footwear, a hat, and plenty of sunscreen and must drink plenty of fluids (provided) throughout the course of the day.

At two different locations, we watched an excavation take place, with scoops full of earth being sifted through screens to find traces of Fremont Man, while other diggers used tiny brushes to whisk dirt off the objects being unearthed. One of the most unusual discoveries to date is a flute that was found nestled high up on a shear-faced wall where it had been sitting since it was last played centuries ago. It's the only Fremont flute ever found and is on display at the College of Eastern Utah Prehistoric Museum in Price.

Because we were staying at the Tavaputs Ranch, we ended our day in Range Creek by riding in comfort back to the top of the Tavaputs Plateau (2500-foot-elevation gain in a mile and a half) to spend one last night at the ranch. Here we sat in a cedar swing facing east out over Desolation Canyon until the dinner bell rang. Then we dined one last time on delicious Western ranch-style fare.