1978 Terry Travel Trailer - Project Terry: Part 1 Photo Gallery
Bearings, Brakes, Wheels & Tires
Larry Walton –
Jul 29, 2013
Photo 1/20 | 1978 Terry Travel Trailer | Although our 1978 Terry travel trailer is in pretty good shape for its age, its groovy ’70s color scheme and outdated appliances make it a good platform for a trailer transformation.
Photo 2/20 | 1978 Terry Travel Trailer | Although our 1978 Terry travel trailer is in pretty good shape for its age, its groovy ’70s color scheme and outdated appliances make it a good platform for a trailer transformation.
Photo 3/20 | 1978 Terry Travel Trailer Corner Damage | A previous owner got creative with some expanding foam to “fix” a ding in the exterior corner molding.
Photo 4/20 | Trailer Wheel Removal | Our trailer came equipped with a Dexter axle that included a hub designed for wheels with a large center void and a four-bolt pattern. This style of hub is discontinued, but Dexter was able to supply a part number for a modern replacement. A cross reference in the Coast catalog soon had the right hubs and bearings en route. We slightly loosened the lug nuts (lug bolts, in this case) while the tires were still on the ground.
Photo 5/20 | Brake Drum Removal | With the trailer resting securely on jackstands, we removed the dust cap with a standard screwdriver after getting it started with a tap from a hammer and block of wood. Next, we pulled the cotter pin and removed the spindle nut and D-washer. We pulled the hub while watching for the outer bearing. We got part numbers from both the inner and outer bearings to order replacements.
Photo 6/20 | Inner Bearing Seal Removal | We drove a standard screwdriver into the seal to remove the inner bearing so we could find replacement part numbers.
Photo 7/20 | Cutting Brake Harness | We located the wires connecting the electronic brake system to the trailer wiring harness and cut them off on the brake side of the connectors, all in preparation for removing the entire brake assembly.
Photo 8/20 | Brake Backing Plate Removed | Four nuts held the brake backing plate to the brake-mounting flange on the axle. We removed the nuts, which allowed us to remove the entire brake assembly, leaving only the spindles and the brake mounting flanges.
Photo 9/20 | Husky Replacement Brake Install | Husky replacement electric brake assembly kits come fully assembled, which made installing them quick and easy. The kits are labeled left and right for the correct side of the trailer. An electromagnet grips the vertical wall of the brake drum, making the rotation of the wheel activate the brake shoes.
Photo 10/20 | Torquing Brake Bolts | We reused the original brake mounting nuts to attach the electric brake assembly kits to the brake-mounting flanges and torqued them to 50 pounds, as specified in the instructions that came with the kits.
Photo 11/20 | Soldering Brake Wiring | Although you can use crimp-style connectors for the brake wiring, we usually solder and heat shrink-wrap on our connections, which makes them durable and weather protected.
Photo 12/20 | Sparying Drums With Brake Clean | We sprayed the drums with brake cleaner to remove any oils, protecting the hubs from corrosion. The Husky replacement drum/hubs came with the studs and bearing races already installed, which saved time and the hassle of pressing in bearing races.
Photo 13/20 | New Bearings And Seal Install | We replaced the inner and outer bearings with new bearings from Husky. We packed the bearings with properly rated grease. Since the races were already installed in the drums, we simply placed the packed inner bearing and installed the seal, which we ordered using the original part number.
Photo 14/20 | Installing Brake Drum | We pre-adjusted the brake drum tensioners so the drums would fit over the brake shoes. Be careful with the seal when putting the drum into place over the spindle.
Photo 15/20 | Wheel Bearing Install | With brake drums/hubs in place, we put the outer bearings onto the spindles, turning the drum and making sure the bearings were seated properly into place.
Photo 16/20 | Axle Nut And Cotter Pin Install | With the D-washers and axle nuts reinstalled, we tightened the axle nut to make sure the bearings were properly seated (in position). From there, we loosened the nuts back just enough to install the cotter pins.
Photo 17/20 | Dust Cap Install | A piece of wood over the dust cap protected it from damage. Since it’s a press fit, it takes a decent amount of force to get it into place.
Photo 18/20 | Adjusting Brake Shoe | A brake spoon (or brake drum adjustment tool) makes accessing the adjustment star screw easier. We adjusted the brakes according to Husky’s instructions.
Photo 19/20 | New Wheels Installed | With the new brakes, bearings, and hubs in place, we installed the new wheels and tires. We started the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading them. Stickers on the wheels gave us the proper lug nut torque specs, which were 90 to 120 lb-ft. We torqued the lug nuts in a star pattern. Plan to check lug nut torque after your trailer has been towed the first time.
Photo 20/20 | New Wheels And Tires Installed | The new drum/hub assemblies updated our trailer brakes and allowed Project Terry to sport some nice new wheels along with current ST tires.