American Racing Headers Install - Power Pipes Photo Gallery
Putting the Growl in Ford's Coyote 5.0L V-8 Thanks to American Racing Headers
Maxwell Matthewson –
Dec 11, 2013
Photo 1/20 | Ford F 150 Dyno Testing | American Racing Headers Install - Power Pipes
Photo 2/20 | Loosening Exhaust Clamps | 1. The first step, as always, was to remove the inferior factory parts. While they worked just fine on the truck, to get the power we wanted, they had to go. Using a 13mm ratcheting wrench, we loosened all of the clamps holding the exhaust in place.
Photo 3/20 | Loosening Hangers | 2. Even though the truck is brand new, the hangers still had to be persuaded to free their grip with a little application of WD-40, pliers, and a prybar.
Photo 4/20 | Unbolting Ball Flange | 3. Again using the 13mm ratcheting wrench, we unbolted the ball flange at the end of the Y-pipe.
Photo 5/20 | Removing Head Pipe | 4. On the new Ford trucks, the muffler is connected to the head-pipe via a notch and key-style fastener. There is a clamp as well, but you must twist the pipe to get it off.
Photo 6/20 | Disonnecting Oxygen Sensors | 5. Moving on to the Y-pipe, the oxygen sensors were disconnected from the wiring harnesses.
Photo 7/20 | Disconnecting Y Pipe | 6. Next, the Y-pipe was disconnected from the exhaust manifolds with a 13mm deep socket on an 8-inch extension.
Photo 8/20 | Removing Transmission Cross Member | 7. In order to drop the Y-pipe from the truck, the transmission crossmember had to first be removed. After supporting the transmission with a jack, four 18mm nuts that held the crossmember to the frame were loosened and the two 15mm nuts that held the crossmember to the transmission support were unbolted.
Photo 9/20 | Removing Oxygen Sensors | 8. With the transmission crossmember out of the way, the Y-pipe came straight down out of the truck. With more room to work, we used a 7/8-inch wrench to remove the oxygen sensors from their bungs.
Photo 10/20 | Removing Exhaust Manifolds | 9. Finally, we were able to remove the exhaust manifolds. This sounds easy, but first we had to remove the starter. Next, we removed all of the bolts from the header studs with a 15mm deep socket. With mere millimeters to spare, there just wasn't enough room to remove the manifolds. To get the manifolds out of the truck, the manifold studs had to be carefully removed from the block using a Torx socket on a universal joint.
Photo 11/20 | New Stainless Steel Headers | 10. The new stainless headers offer a streamlined design to give the hot exhaust air a free path to exit the truck. They also feature 3/8-inch flanges, merge collectors, and a true two-into-one design.
Photo 12/20 | American Racing Headers Long Tubes | 11. After almost two hours of knuckle busting, the studs were removed and the manifolds were out of the truck. Here you can see how big of a difference there is between the factory manifolds and the American Racing Headers long-tubes. It's truly a night and day difference.
Photo 13/20 | Installing New Arh Headers | 12. We immediately filled the new void on either side of the engine with the new ARH headers. Again, this was easier said than done. Plenty of wiggling and prodding was needed to get them into place.
Photo 14/20 | Installing New Studs | 13. With even less room than before, we slowly and carefully threaded each stud into its hole in the block. With them all in, we tightened the bolts down from the center out, in a zig-zag pattern to ensure even torque. We did say that the kit came with new bolts to replace the studs, but we decided that to keep as much factory parts as possible.
Photo 15/20 | American Racing Exhaust | 14. As with the headers, the American Racing exhaust provides an unobstructed exit for the air leaving the engine. The resonator and muffler work together to deliver an appealing rumble, without the in-cabin drone that other exhaust systems cause.
Photo 16/20 | Placing New Catalytic Converters | 15. To begin the install of the stainless exhaust system, the new, two-piece Y-pipe with catalytic converters was lifted up into place. Using the supplied 14mm nuts and bolts, the ball joint exhaust flange was tightened down.
Photo 17/20 | Installing New Head Pipe | 16. The new head pipe with resonator was then bolted to the Y-pipe.
Photo 18/20 | New Over The Axle Pipe | 17. The last piece to go on was the over the axle pipe with the tips welded to it. This was affixed with a standard exhaust clamp.
Photo 19/20 | Reinstalling Oxygen Sensors | 18. To finish the install, we screwed the oxygen sensors into place and reattached them to the wiring harness in the truck.
Photo 20/20 | Finished Install | 19. After: The polished dual exhaust tips looked great and the rumble sounded even better. It is important to note that with long-tube headers, the factory ECU needs to be tuned to achieve proper performance.