Adding Power and Performance to Our 2011 Ford F-250 With AFE
Solid Gains: We Install an AFE Intake, Exhaust, Boost Tubes, and Scorcher Module on an ’11 Ford F-250 for 56 hp and 82 lb-ft
The power late-model diesel engines make is impressive straight from the factory, but the infectious quest for more horsepower and torque creates an itch for underhood additions both big and small. Wanting to see how much more our ’11 Ford F-250 6.7L Power Stroke engine could make with a few simple upgrades—and knowing we wanted bolt-on parts that wouldn’t alter the emissions equipment—we reached out to our friends at AFE Power to see what they had to offer that could give us that extra oomph when we hit the skinny pedal. After going through the catalog, we decide to install a quartet of AFE power-adders: a Momentum HD cold air intake, a set of BladeRunner Intercooler Tubes (hot and cold side), a DPF-back exhaust, and a potent Scorcher HD module. With the parts picked out and the truck ready to go, we headed to AFE’s impressive facility in Corona, California, to install the power-increasing goodies on our Ford.
1. Before installing any parts, we strapped the Ford to the Dynojet dyno to get some real-world baseline figures on the factory-rated 400hp/800–lb-ft. truck. The stock 6.7L Power Stroke engine made an impressive 355 hp and 718 lb-ft of torque at the wheels.
2. With the truck off the dyno and cooled down, the first step is to remove the stock intake. After unbolting a few pieces and unclipping a few clips, the factory intake comes out without a fight.
3. Only a couple of pieces carry over from the stock intake to the AFE Momentum. The most important of these pieces is the mass airflow sensor, which easily comes off and slips right into the AFE unit.
4. The AFE intake drops in uneventfully and lines up perfectly with the air inlet. The intake tube even has a cutout for the factory EGR cooler line to snap into, cleaning up the engine bay and keeping unnecessary rattles to a minimum.
5. With the intake secured under the hood, we turn our attention to installing the plug-and-play Scorcher module. With simple connections that tap into the MAP sensor and fuel sensor, the Scorcher installs in a jiffy.
6. We mount the Scorcher next to the firewall and run the simple two-wire hookup to the required sensors.
7. The most important and troublesome connector is the fuel-sending unit (arrow). Make sure this plug is properly seated to avoid any potential trouble codes.
8. The Scorcher is controlled by a single button switch with color-coded LEDs to let you know which mode it’s in. The green LED is the Stock setting, the yellow LED is Sport mode, the orange LED is Sport+, and the red LED is Race mode. We mount the switch to the dash for easy access and where the LEDs wouldn’t be bothersome at night.
9. With the Scorcher install wrapped up, we turn our attention to smoothing out the airflow into the turbocharger from the intercooler with a set of BladeRunner Intercooler Tubes. The kit includes new tubes for the hot and cold side of the intercooler and all the necessary hardware to install them.
10. The obvious first step of installing the new boost tubes is to get the stock ones out of the way. Ford did a pretty good job here, and the stock tubes come out with the removal of only a few clips.
11. To make room for the new BladeRunner boost tube, the power steering reservoir needs to be shifted over with the included bracket. With a couple of new bolts, the reservoir is in its new location.
12. With the new silicone boots installed on the lower coupler and the sensor swapped from the stock tube, it slips into its new home with ease.
13. The final upgrade to our Ford is to install a 5-inch DPF-back exhaust for improved flow and burly good looks. The first step is to remove the stock exhaust to make room for the massive new tubing.
14. With the factory exhaust removed, you can see how much larger the new AFE system is.
15. Since our kit fits both longbed and shortbed Super Duty pickups, the piece directly behind the DPF needs to be trimmed to fit. A quick test-fit and measurement has us ready to cut the tubing.
16. A quick trip to the cold saw has our tubing trimmed to size in a snap. If you don’t have access to a fancy cold saw, a good old pipe cutter will do the trick, too.
17. With the exhaust trimmed to the appropriate size, it slips into the factory hangers without a fuss. The addition of the massive 7-inch tip gives the rear of our truck a whole new look.
18. Now that we’re making more power and will be demanding even more from our Super Duty, we figured this was a good time to add extra fluid capacity to our transmission and differentials. With a set of AFE extra-capacity differential covers, a deep transmission pan, and a bunch of premium Amsoil synthetic fluid, we got to work adding an extra level of protection to our Super Duty’s drivetrain.
Before we added any of the AFE upgrades, we ran this 6.7L Power Stroke on the Dynojet dyno and put down some pretty respectable numbers—355 hp and 718 lb-ft of torque. The blue line on the graph is the baseline run. After we finished installing all the performance AFE upgrades, we strapped her back down and made some more pulls to see what she could do.
Running the truck with the intake, boost tubes, exhaust, and tuner on the Stock setting netted us gains of 7 hp and 23 lb-ft of torque; this is represented by the green line. The gains may not seem like much, but it made them low in the rpm range, which is exactly where you need it.
We cranked up the Scorcher HD Module to the Race setting and put the hammer down. The truck picked up an impressive amount of power, putting down 401 hp and 800 lb-ft of torque—a gain of 56 hp and 82 lb-ft of torque. Once we were done making power on the dyno, we hit the highway to feel that impressive seat-of-the-pants power.