Photo 3/26 | 004 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Riffraff Kit | RiffRaff Diesel Performance’s Garrett GTP38 Turbo Rebuild Kit ($67) comes with the 360-degree thrust bearing (top), journal bearings, seals, and O-rings. The RiffRaff billet compressor wheel (foreground)—which we’re using for this rebuild to quicken spooling, stop surge, and increase power—is a $180 option.
Photo 4/26 | 005 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Remove Wastegate Rod Clip | A small screwdriver works well to pop loose the E-clip holding the wastegate rod to the lever on the compressor housing; then the wastegate is removed and set aside.
Photo 5/26 | 006 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Hammer Compressor Housing | The compressor housing will probably need to be given a few gentle taps with a soft hammer to pop it free after the five 8mm 12-point bolts are removed. If you’re going to reuse the compressor wheel, remove the housing carefully so the wheel fins aren’t damaged.
Photo 6/26 | 007 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Unbolt Ebpv Housing | The seven bolts that secure the EBPV housing to the turbo are removed. We recommend dousing all the bolts with a good penetrating lubricant before disassembling to make the job easier.
Photo 7/26 | 008 Garrett Turbo Removing Compressor Wheel | The compressor wheel is removed by using pliers to hold the hub of the turbine wheel while turning the compressor wheel counterclockwise. A small impact driver works best to initially loosen the turbine wheel on the threaded shaft; then carefully spin it off by hand.
Photo 8/26 | 009 Garrett Turbo Removing Center Carrier | Four more bolts hold the center carrier to the turbine housing. A few taps with the soft hammer help knock it loose, exposing the turbine wheel.
Photo 9/26 | 010 Garrett Turbo Old Thrust Bearing | With the backplate off, the wear on the 270-degree thrust bearing and collar is easily seen. These worn-out parts, and the O-ring, are all being upgraded. Pay close attention to the orientation of the brass thrust bearing before removing it.
Photo 10/26 | 011 Garrett Turbo Thrust Bearing Comparison | The original Garrett 270-degree thrust bearing and collar (left) are being replaced by the 360-degree combination that provides better oiling and distributes the thrust forces more evenly for longer life.
Photo 11/26 | 012 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Bad Turbine | If you pull the turbine wheel assembly out of the housing and see this, you can stop the rebuild part right here and replace the entire centersection.
Photo 12/26 | 013 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Old Turbine | If the turbine wheel comes out of the housing looking like this one, you’re good to resume the rebuilding process.
Photo 13/26 | 014 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Turbine Shaft Assembly | A light tap on the turbine shaft helps slide the assembly out of the center support, exposing the brass bearings and steel spacer between them.
Photo 14/26 | 015 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Turbine Shaft Seal Ring | The turbine shaft seal ring is removed. This piece wears and is a common cause for oil leaks. A small pick is used to get the ring out of its groove and off the shaft.
Photo 15/26 | 016 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Cleaning Turbine Shaft | Ruben uses a small brass brush to clean off the built-up carbon from the shaft and seal-ring groove. Then, a scouring pad polishes the surfaces before reassembly.
Photo 16/26 | 017 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Install Seal Ring | We’re replacing the old seal ring with the larger of the two in the kit. Don’t spread the ring too much when putting it back on the shaft.
Photo 17/26 | 018 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Install Cleaning Center Cartridge | The center cartridge also needs to be thoroughly cleaned of carbon, both outside and in the recessed area the shaft and seal slide into. Scouring pads, a wire brush, and brake cleaner will do the trick.
Photo 18/26 | 019 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Oil Bath | Give all the bearings in the kit a nice soak in clean engine oil before installing. This ensures they will have at least some lubrication before the engine starts.
Photo 19/26 | 020 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Shaft Reassembly | Reassembling a Garrett GTP38 turbocharger is just as simple as taking the unit apart. Start by placing the new journal bearings and spacer on the cleaned and polished shaft.
Photo 20/26 | 021 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Center Cartridge Shaft | Look underneath the center cartridge to ensure the seal ring is centered, and then firmly press the cartridge down until you hear and feel a little “click” of the seal ring engaging.
Photo 21/26 | 022 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Installing Thrust Bearing | Use the new bolts supplied in the kit to install the 360-degree thrust bearing, washer, and pre-shaped seal ring.
Photo 22/26 | 023 Garrett Turbo Rebuild White Grease | A trick Ruben uses to hold the seal and bearing in place during reassembly is to coat everything lightly with white lithium grease.
Photo 23/26 | 024 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Backplate Install | Fingers help keep the thrust bearing in place as the backplate is inserted and set on the center cartridge.
Photo 24/26 | 025 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Torgue Backplate | All the 8mm bolts that hold the turbo together are torqued to 15 to 17 ft-lb in a crisscross pattern, including these four that secure the backplate to the centersection.
Photo 25/26 | 026 Garrett Turbo Rebuild New Wheel | This is a closer look at RiffRaff’s Second Generation performance billet compressor wheel with the 4/4-blade design. The new wheel is said to spool faster and reduce smoke, while providing 5 to 7 pounds more boost (about 17 hp and 38 lb-ft of torque).
Photo 26/26 | 027 Garrett Turbo Rebuild Wastegate Install | After the compressor and EBPV housings are reinstalled and the bolts torqued, Ruben demonstrates how to use a little compressed air to push the wastegate actuator rod down so it can be secured to the wastegate lever with the E-clip.