For the money, there is no better way to increase your trucks horsepower potential and also instill an increased level of confidence than with a bolt-on cold-air intake (CAI) kit right from the box. They're easy to install and fit perfectly! Thankfully, the aftermarket has proven itself and CAI kits are flying off the shelves.
When we were searching for an all-in-one CAI for our 392ci Hemi-powered 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT, we knew JLT Performance would be getting a call to assist with additional airflow and oil vapor control. JLT Performance offers a variety of off-the-shelf, bolt-on components for most GM, Ford and Dodge vehicles. In our case, we opted for the JLT Performance cold-air intake (PN CAI-SRTJ-12) and oil separator (PN 3063P). JLT Performance claims 18-22 rear-wheel horsepower and torque increases with this specific CAI kit. It came complete with everything we needed including the custom-built, 5x7-inch Powerstack air filter element, intake tube, heat shield, clamps and hardware.
| Removing the factory airbox is a straightforward process. It included loosening the clamp on the airbox, unplugging the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and PCV line. We also removed the stock airbox base from the front fenderwell.
To up the ante, we also installed a JLT Performance oil separator kit. These oil separators trap excess oil vapor, which is normally rerouted through the intake manifold and could build up with a layer of gunk and oily residue in the intake tubes and runners. The best part is, there is no drilling or funky installation procedure. It's a true plug-and-play setup and was installed in less than 10 minutes.
While we don't have real-world dyno numbers to share, we are happy to report the seat-of-the-pants feel was certainly noticeable along with a much more aggressive intake growl during wide-open throttle applications. What's more, we got it all installed in about an hour in the garage using basic handtools. Of course, we'll show you how it's all installed below, and check out the JLT performance website to see what's available for your truck or SUV.
| While removing factory components, it's important to note the IAT is very sensitive and can be damaged easily. We were careful to move it to the side until we can reinstall it later on in the process.
| Moving ahead, we removed the push pin that holds the washer fluid tank to the radiator support. This will allow clearance for the JLT Performance heat shield in the next step of the install.
| Next, we dropped in the heat shield. It's made from ABS plastic which blocks engine heat at idle and low speeds. It uses a large area to assure the air filter has a surplus of cool air.
| Using the supplied push nut, we secured the heat shield on the stud. Then, also reinstalled the push pin to the washer fluid tank.
| Moving along, we next installed the silicone reducer to the throttle body using the supplied clamps.
| Then, we fed the JLT roto molded plastic intake tube through the heat shield opening and clamped it on. Twisting the elbow and tube together was required for the proper angle.
| Next, we gently reinstalled the IAT sensor into the side of the JLT plastic intake tube.
| Lastly, we installed the custom-built and designed S&B air filter. It has a built-in bell mouth for super smooth and fast airflow and benefits from large, 1-inch-deep pleats, which increase surface area. It was fastened down using the supplied clamp.
| With the CAI installed, we could move on to upgrading the factory PCV with the JLT Performance oil separator. The first order of business was to locate the PCV hardline, which runs across the intake manifold.
| Applying a gentle amount of force, we separated the hardline from the rubber ends. Pliers may be needed to release the rubber seals on the connections.
| Using a 15mm wrench, we removed one of the upper water pump bolts.
| Using the water pump housing bolt, we fastened the supplied JLT Performance bracket to the water pump.
| The JLT Performance oil separator 3.0 traps oil vapor from the PCV through a fine stainless steel mesh screen. Once there, it falls into a base and is captured. It's milled from solid billet aluminum, made in the USA and requires no funky drilling or installation. It's a plug-and-play installation and couldn't be any simpler.
| We fed the end of the JLT Performance oil separator line and connected it to the PCV cap.
| With the supplied hardware, we locked down the oil separator tank to the bracket using a Phillips screwdriver.
| JLT Performance suggests checking the oil separator level just after the first 1,000 miles and then draining every 2,000-3,000 miles. It even has knurling at the base of the tank for easy removal and draining and an O-ring to prevent leaks.
| Heavy Hemi Breathing 18