MTX and Stinger Audio Upgrade - Good Vibrations Photo Gallery
Our EcoBoost Gets An Audio Overhaul From MTX and Stinger
Patrick McCarthy –
Dec 3, 2013
Photo 1/18 | Mtx Audio Speakers | MTX and Stinger Audio Upgrade - Good Vibrations
Photo 2/18 | Mtx Speakers And Components | 1. MTX sent us two complete sets of Thunder Axe component speakers (P/N: TX6, $229.95), each of which included two 6.5-inch woofers, two 25mm tweeters, and two adjustable crossovers. Our stock Ford speakers never stood a chance.
Photo 3/18 | Removing Door Panels | 2. To access the factory speakers, we began by removing all four door panels from our Super Cab F-150, and then set them aside.
Photo 4/18 | Disconnecting Factory Speakers | 3. With the door panels off, the factory speakers could be unscrewed from the doors and disconnected.
Photo 5/18 | Removing Rubber Insulation | 4. Before applying our Stealth Roadkill sound damping, we needed to peel the black rubber insulation off each door and throw it away.
Photo 6/18 | Applying Stealth Roadkill Sheets | 5. The Stealth Roadkill sheets were trimmed to size and applied to the bare metal door panels. Holes were cut to reveal the speaker openings and window switch wiring.
Photo 7/18 | Installing Crossover | 6. The crossovers were mounted to the doors using perforated steel strips and self-tapping screws. Then, they were connected to new wiring that was run through each door to the rear of the cab.
Photo 8/18 | Mounting Rear Crossover | 7. For the rear doors, the crossovers had to be mounted facing outward to provide enough clearance for the door panels.
Photo 9/18 | Installing Mtx Speaker | 8. Next, the new 6.5-inch MTX speakers were wired to the crossovers and secured to the doors with more self-tapping screws.
Photo 10/18 | Installing High To Low Converter | 9. An adjustable high-to-low converter was wired in-line to reduce the signal level from the Ford head unit before it gets to the MTX amp. This prevents clipping and distortion caused by sending too loud of a signal to the amplifier.
Photo 11/18 | Mounting Tweeters | 10. With the speakers and crossovers handled, it was time to mount the tweeters. We chose this spot on the door panel, drilled holes for the wires, and screwed the tweeters in place.
Photo 12/18 | Mtx Thunderform Sub | 11. To add some thump to our system, we picked up this MTX ThunderForm vehicle-specific sub box (P/N: F150EX09FB10A-TN, $649.95). With a built-in 200W RMS mono amp and 10-inch Terminator woofer, it's designed to fit snugly under our truck's rear bench seat.
Photo 13/18 | Plugging In Box | 12. Setting the box in place under the seat, we simply plugged in the included power wire and two Stinger RCA cables from the factory head unit.
Photo 14/18 | Mtx Amp | 13. The MTX subwoofer enclosure has its own mono amp, but we still needed an amp for our component speakers. This MTX 360W RMS four-channel unit (P/N: TH90.4, $349.95) fit the bill perfectly.
Photo 15/18 | Installing Amp Under Seat | 14. We placed the amp under the rear bench seat across from the sub box, and then screwed it securely to the floor. We had no loss of seating space.
Photo 16/18 | Installing Stinger Power Distribution Block | 15. This Stinger power distribution block was connected to the sub box and amplifier, and fuses were installed for each. Then, a Stinger power wire was run along the doorsill and into the engine bay.
Photo 17/18 | Attaching Stinger Power Wire To Battery | 16. The Stinger power wire was attached to the new Interstate MT7 AGM positive battery terminal, and the in-line fuse was zip-tied out of the way.
Photo 18/18 | Completed Install | 17. Wiring was run under the carpet to all four crossovers, RCA cables were run to the head unit, and a ground wire was soldered to the floor. Black zip ties secured everything neatly in place, and the install was complete.