Ford Super Duty: Project Outcast Part 2 Photo Gallery
Cab-On Head Stud Install
Mike McGlothlin –
Oct 1, 2012
Photo 1/22 | project Outcast Part 2 head Removed | Because the head bolts hold the rocker arms, rocker box, and heads to the block, the rocker boxes have to come off with the heads. Lifting the heads off the block is a two-man job: one running the lift and the other making sure the head clears the hood, radiator, evaporator core, and front cover. Once the heads were off the block, Flynn unbolted the exhaust manifolds and rocker boxes and sent the heads to the machine shop to be resurfaced and magnafluxed.
Photo 2/22 | project Outcast Part 2 ford Super Duty With Cab Off | Ford Super Duty: Project Outcast Part 2
Photo 3/22 | project Outcast Part 2 coolant Degas Bottle | Finding coolant residue on the degas bottle is usually a telltale sign that a 6.0L has toasted a head gasket. If the gasket stops sealing in even the smallest area, compression slips past the gasket and the coolant system gets pressurized. Unfortunately for this engine, it was puking coolant for a lengthy period of time before being addressed, so we were concerned the heads would be warped beyond repair. First things first: Flynn drained the coolant.
Photo 4/22 | project Outcast Part 2 egr Delete Kit | With the intake manifold off, it was an opportune time to do away with the notoriously problematic EGR cooler. For its functionality and great fit and finish, we used this complete EGR delete from River City Diesel.
Photo 5/22 | project Outcast Part 2 intake Manifold Removal | As you can imagine, several hours are involved in the teardown process. Key items that need to be pulled are: the serpentine belt, alternator, fan shroud, intercooler and radiator hoses, thermostat, EGR valve, FICM, fuel and oil filter reservoirs, turbo, engine wiring harness, and intake manifold.
Photo 6/22 | project Outcast Part 2 oil Cooler Removal | Although you don’t have to pull the oil cooler for a head gasket job, any time you get this far into a 6.0L engine, it’s a good idea to rebuild it. We’ll show you how to overhaul your 6.0L's oil cooler next month.
Photo 7/22 | project Outcast Part 2 evaporator Core Removal | To make room on the passenger side of the engine, Flynn removed part of the evaporator core housing (it’s held in place with 10 screws). With just one portion of the shell removed, it provides enough room to access all the head bolts (you don’t have to pull the evaporator core itself).
Photo 8/22 | project Outcast Part 2 injector Plug Removal | With the valve covers and oil rails off each head, Flynn used a 3/4-inch (12-point) socket to dislodge the injector plug-ins from the rocker boxes. He then pulled the injectors and glow plugs and started breaking the head bolts loose. The five 8mm bolts at the top of each head were used to keep the heads attached to the block (once all the head bolts were loose) and were taken out after the cherry picker was in position to lift each head off the block.
Photo 9/22 | project Outcast Part 2 rearmost Headbolt Stuck | Here you can see the rearmost top head bolt in the passenger-side head barely clearing the rest of the evaporator core housing. Of the 20 head bolts securing the heads to the block, 5 can’t be removed due to clearance issues (the 4 bottom bolts on the driver-side head, and the rearmost bottom bolt on the passenger side). To remedy this, Flynn holds each bolt up out of the block with a zip tie. This keeps the bolt from sliding back into the threads in the block prior to removal of the head.
Photo 10/22 | project Outcast Part 2 head Removed | Because the head bolts hold the rocker arms, rocker box, and heads to the block, the rocker boxes have to come off with the heads. Lifting the heads off the block is a two-man job: one running the lift and the other making sure the head clears the hood, radiator, evaporator core, and front cover. Once the heads were off the block, Flynn unbolted the exhaust manifolds and rocker boxes and sent the heads to the machine shop to be resurfaced and magnafluxed.
Photo 11/22 | project Outcast Part 2 head Gasket | After pulling the passenger-side head, we immediately noticed black marks next to cylinder number 5 (arrow). This is where the head gasket lifted and compression slipped past.
Photo 12/22 | project Outcast Part 2 cleaning The Block | While waiting on the machine shop, Flynn started cleaning up the block’s mating surface. It’s important to not get carried away here, as too much scraping can ruin the block. Choose a mild grit grinder pad over an aggressive one and focus more on getting the old gasket material off and the block clean than making it perfectly flat.
Photo 13/22 | project Outcast Part 2 compression Marks | Don’t be alarmed if you see these kinds of black marks once you’ve prepped your block surface. Over the course of a 6.0L’s life, heat cycles are going to leave compression marks like this behind. As long as they don’t affect the surface area (and you can’t feel them), they’re nothing to worry about.
Photo 14/22 | project Outcast Part 2 checking The Blocks Straightness | According to Ford, the block’s surface must show no more than a 0.002-inch difference in a 5.9-inch area. To make sure the block was good to go, Flynn placed a straight edge across it in several areas and tried to slide a 0.002-inch feeler gauge under it. It passed the test with flying colors.
Photo 15/22 | project Outcast Part 2 cracked Head | With no more than 0.004 inches of flatness difference across the entire surface area, our factory heads were salvageable—at first. However, once they were magnafluxed, more than a dozen cracks were found (several are highlighted here with a black magic marker), all of which protruded into the exhaust valve seats. This was a sign that the engine had seen excessive EGT in the past.
Photo 16/22 | project Outcast Part 2 new Cylinder Heads | There was no choice but to replace the heads, and these brand-new units from Ford retailed for $1,800 apiece (PN 3C3Z-6049-DA). Flynn had to swap the old exhaust manifolds and rocker boxes onto the new heads.
Photo 17/22 | project Outcast Part 2 alignment Dowel | Because Ford now only casts the later-style cylinder heads (engines built after January 2006), stepped alignment dowels had to be used to install the heads. Early 6.0Ls (like the ’04 we’re showing here) used 18mm alignment dowels, while later engines were equipped with 20mm units. The stepped dowels, which Ford supplies with its new heads, make the process of fitting an older block with newer heads possible.
Photo 18/22 | project Outcast Part 2 lower Studs Installed | Prior to installing the passenger-side head, the bottom four head studs and the rearmost top stud were zip tied in place (keeping the studs slightly less than flush with the bottom of the head). Then each stud’s threads were coated with ARP’s Ultra-Torque assembly lubricant.
Photo 19/22 | project Outcast Part 2 drivers Side Rear Head Studs Installed | On the driver-side head, only the rearmost (top and bottom) studs were zip tied in place. As you can see, clearance at the back of the head is much tighter on the driver side, and we’ll add that lowering the head onto the block is much more time consuming. Once each head was set on the alignment dowels, one of the top 8mm head bolts was installed (just past handtight) for added security.
Photo 20/22 | project Outcast Part 2 arp Stud Installed | Next, the zip ties were cut off and all head studs were handtightened into the block. Then Flynn reinstalled the pushrods, valve bridges, rocker arms, and the rocker arm dowels at the front and rear of each head. Notice an ARP nut is not yet on the top studs (arrows). Note: Gradually tighten the rocker arm bolts (jump from head to head). You want to make sure the lifter collapses before putting the final torque on them (23 ft-lb).
Photo 21/22 | project Outcast Part 2 rearmost Stud Being Torqued Down | Due to the socket sitting at an angle, the tight clearance near the firewall, and the fact that you basically have to push to tighten when torquing the driver-side head studs, it's an awkward process. Here, you can see the rearmost bottom stud getting torqued, which is the most difficult fastener to get to.
Photo 22/22 | project Outcast Part 2 torque Sequence | Using ARP’s recommended torque sequence (which works from the center out), Flynn tightened the studs in four intervals. The first called for 50 ft-lb, followed by 100 ft-lb, 155 ft-lb, and a final torque of 210 ft-lb.