Magic Show: Part 1 - 2010 Ford F-350 Photo Gallery
Turning a Tow Pig Into a Prized Possession: Part 1
Dan Ward –
Jun 1, 2013
Photo 1/38 | 2010 Ford F350 finished Front Right | Magic Show: Part 1 - 2010 Ford F-350
Photo 2/38 | 2010 Ford F350 finished Front Right | Magic Show: Part 1 - 2010 Ford F-350
Photo 3/38 | 2010 Ford F350 before Front Right | 1. Before: When we began the day, our 2010 Ford F-350 dualie was 100 percent stock. The tires were worn down and needed replacing, which provided us with the perfect opportunity to improve all aspects of the truck.
Photo 4/38 | 2010 Ford F350 continental Tires | 2. Side by side, our factory 245/70R17 Continental tires were 30.5 inches tall, but the new Continental HSR1 245/70R19.5 tires ($356.00 each at simpletire.com) and Weld Racing 19.5-inch D50 dualie wheels ($742.11 each at weldracing.com) measured in at a full 33 inches tall. To provide the necessary fender clearance, we'll be installing a 2-inch Daystar leveling kit.
Photo 5/38 | 2010 Ford F350 daystar Leveling Kit | 3. It may look like a lot of parts, but the Daystar leveling kit was extremely basic and not difficult to install. Shown in the photo, the 2-inch Comfort Ride kit (KF09101BK, $129.99 at 4wheelparts.com) included the 2-inch polyurethane spacer and threaded extension, and we also ordered front and rear shocks from Daystar to complete the install ($39.99 each).
Photo 6/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Sway Bar | 4. Once we had the one-ton behemoth up on our shop lift (though you could easily do the install with jackstands), we removed the wheels and tires and then removed the sway bar endlink from the sway bar.
Photo 7/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Lower Shock Mounting Nut | 5. Using a half-inch swivel joint, we removed the lower shock mounting nut and pulled the shock free from the mounting bolt.
Photo 8/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Coil Spring L Bracket | 6. The top of the coil spring was held in place by a simple steel "L" bracket. Using a 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, we removed the retaining bolt and removed the bracket.
Photo 9/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Coil Spring Nut | 7. The lower portion of the coil spring was retained by a large nut with a steel washer. Using a large wrench, we removed the nut.
Photo 10/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Large Coil Spring | 8. With the solid axle supported by a tranny jack, we lowered each side of the axle down separately and removed the large coil spring.
Photo 11/38 | 2010 Ford F350 threading Daystar Treaded Extension | 9. After removing the factory nylon isolator bushing, we threaded on the Daystar threaded extension and tightened it down.
Photo 12/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Original Shock | 10. A ratchet and wrench were used to remove the upper shock retaining nut and the original shock was removed.
Photo 13/38 | 2010 Ford F350 placing Daystar Polyurethane Spacer | 11. Up next, we slid the Daystar 2-inch polyurethane spacer into place.
Photo 14/38 | 2010 Ford F350 positioning Factory Coil Spring | 12. It took some muscle, but we then positioned the factory coil spring into place and used the factory lower and upper hardware to secure it in place.
Photo 15/38 | 2010 Ford F350 installing Daystar Scorpion Shocks | 13. We were now ready to install the new Daystar Scorpion shocks. Included in our kit, the optional shock armor was easy to attach and will protect our shock bodies for years to come.
Photo 16/38 | 2010 Ford F350 alignment Cams | 14. To ensure proper alignment, we installed a set of alignment cams engineered specifically for our 2WD F-350 dualie (PN: 24220, $58.63). These parts came from Specialty Products Company and are a must for anyone lowering, leveling, or lifting a truck. You'll be happy you added these once your steering wheel is straight, your truck rides like factory, and your tires wear evenly.
Photo 17/38 | 2010 Ford F350 ebc Break Pad | 15. In keeping with the safety theme, while we had the truck up on the lift we checked our factory brake pads. As we suspected, the miles of towing had quickly worn down our pads and we took this opportunity to upgrade them with a pair of Orange Stuff pads from EBC Brakes. With a larger contact swept area and slots to vent hot gases away from the contact surface, our tow rig will stop better and our brakes will last longer.
Photo 18/38 | 2010 Ford F350 placing Ebc Break Pads | 16. It was necessary to remove both the brake caliper and mounting bracket to properly gain access to the Ford brake pads. Once both pieces were separated, we greased the mounting points and backs of the pads, pushed the caliper pistons back into the calipers, and slid the new EBC brake pads into position.
Photo 19/38 | 2010 Ford F350 installing Daystar Scorpion Shocks | 17. Moving to the rear, we replaced our old shocks with new Scorpion shocks with shock armor from Daystar.
Photo 20/38 | 2010 Ford F350 comparing Break Pads | 18. Out back, the brake pads were excessively worn down. With so much weight hanging off of the rear axle, the rear pads were taking a beating. Thankfully, the new EBC pads were much thicker and have a special compound to dissipate heat better and last longer.
Photo 21/38 | 2010 Ford F350 placing Ebc Break Pads | 19. Just like in the front, the rear calipers were removed as an entire unit and then the bracket installed separately. The EBC Orange Stuff pads were then slid into place.
Photo 22/38 | 2010 Ford F350 installing Weld Racing Wheels | 20. With the suspension and brakes handled, we could lower the truck down and install the new 19.5-inch Weld Racing wheels and 245/70R19.5 Continental HSR1 commercial tires. We inflated our tires to 100 psi to handle the rigors of towing and highway driving.
Photo 23/38 | 2010 Ford F350 continental Tire | 21. Though a little harsher than the factory 17-inch wheel/tire combo, we were impressed with the ride quality of the larger wheels and tires and we greatly appreciate knowing these tires will last us 100,000 miles with proper rotation and inflation. The Weld D50 dualie wheels perfectly offset the sea of white paint and they will handle any load we throw at them. Both the wheels and tires are proudly made in the USA.
Photo 24/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Tailgate Retaining Screws | 22. LED lighting is an integral part of safety, and we wanted to replace the old incandescent housing with new hi-tech lighting from Spyder Auto. Using an 8mm socket, both taillight retaining screws were removed.
Photo 25/38 | 2010 Ford F350 spyder Auto Light | 23. Side by side, the new Spyder Auto light (left, $222.95 from www.autoanything.com) is full of super-bright LED lights, whereas the factory light used a single bulb.
Photo 26/38 | 2010 Ford F350 plugging In Spyder Pigtails | 24. Installation couldn't have been any easier. We simply unplugged the factory bulb harnesses and plugged the new Spyder pigtails into them.
Photo 27/38 | 2010 Ford F350 spyder Auto Light | 25. Once the brake pedal was applied, the LEDs shone brightly and will help everyone see us slowing down.
Photo 28/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Headlight Retaining Bolts | 26. Up front, the four factory headlight retaining bolts were removed. For the record, there is one up top, two on the side, and one hiding underneath.
Photo 29/38 | 2010 Ford F350 spyder Halo Rings | 27. To wire up the Spyder halo rings and LED lights ($360.95 from www.autoanything.com), we needed to tap into the running lights. It's important to not splice into the turn signal light, or else your halo rings will flash every time your blinker is engaged. Using a Power Probe Screamer, we easily found the proper wire to tap into. In this F-350's case, it was the purple wire with white stripe.
Photo 30/38 | 2010 Ford F350 placing Inline Taps | 28. The Spyder lights do not come with wire taps. We had to make a trip to the parts store to buy these inline taps. Once the positive and negative wires from the halos and LEDs were separately spliced together, we could tap into the factory wiring.
Photo 31/38 | 2010 Ford F350 spyder Halo Rings | 29. As you can see, the before and after lighting was dramatically different.
Photo 32/38 | 2010 Ford F350 cutting Plastic Grille Inserts | 30. Moving on to the grille, the Royalty Core is a full replacement, meaning it does not just lay over the factory plastic. This style is ideal, as you will not see the ugly plastic crossbars peering from behind the black stainless mesh. Using an air saw, the plastic grille inserts were cut out.
Photo 33/38 | 2010 Ford F350 removing Grille | 31. Once the center section was properly cut, the center section was pulled free.
Photo 34/38 | 2010 Ford F350 .jpgroyalty Core Grille | 32. Featuring solid stainless steel construction, the new Royalty Core grille is one of the beefiest, sturdiest, and most well-built grilles we've installed ($1,267). The mesh is rock-solid and the sword emblem is different than the usual marketing logo. Simply put, it's badass.
Photo 35/38 | 2010 Ford F350 drilling Hole | 33. Using an angle drill, a 3/16-inch drill bit was needed to drill a hole into the factory plastic for each mounting tab.
Photo 36/38 | magic Show securing Grille | 34. Included in the kit, screws, washers, and retaining fasteners were used to secure the grille to the plastic surround.
Photo 37/38 | magic Show placing Royality Core Grille | 35. With the unique three-piece design of the '08-'10 Super Duty grilles, Royalty Core included the inserts for the side panels as well. The same installation method was performed on each of these.
Photo 38/38 | 2010 Ford F350 finished Grille | 36. To say the front end was upgraded would be a huge understatement. The Spyder Auto halo/LED lights and Royalty Core mesh grille add an aggressive, menacing look to our 2010 F-350. Be sure to check back next month, when we address safer towing with new products from Tork Lift.